Friday, April 21, 2006

Food & Movies

In our desire to learn more about Havana, we discovered that this city is picturesque from all over the island, from Morro Castle to Old Havana, to even the newer neighborhoods uptown. But since we came for the film festival we found ourselves crisscrossing the city, going from one movie theatre to the next, where lines of movier goers snaked down the block and around the corner.


And since our quest for movies inevitably led to the search for food, the two seem to be connected on this trip. What saved us from having to eat the worst pizza on the earth was Nicole's talent for referring to our guide book and map. Without Lonely Planet's advice we would have been worse off. When in doubt get the planet!! It's worth the money.

In regards to food, what we quickly learned is that in Cuba, it's all about the meat. And if fact, the more meat you eat the better off you are. There are markets everywhere with fresh meat sitting on tables. I'm talking slabs of meat, skinned legs of animals, juicy innards, dead chicken and cow parts sprawled around, and lots of pork everywhere, all raw animal flesh hanging from hooks, basking in the sun, a play ground for flies and shoppers.

It reminded me of La Marqueta, a huge meat market in Harlem, where I used to frequent with my relatives. Even the smell of raw meat was the same, and still made me quesy. I took these pics because I didn't believe my Mother would believe my stories of meat in the Cuban sun. While I may not appreciate it, the Cubans are rumored to be great at preparing the meat, and many people adore the dishes that result

The obvious thing is that vegetarians clearly have it hard here. Most Cubans are meat eaters, but there is a growing population of Cuban veg-heads struggling in this meat-oriented society. There is a chain of vegetarian restaurants that is at least a step in the right direction for people like me, though too pricey.

Because of this, our main dishes tended to be rice and black beans with salad. Nicole was clearly at a disadvantage, and thus limited in what she could consume. Rice. Black beans (when available which isn't always) and salad. And then there are eggs, which aren't vegetarian but at least a protein option. Since I have more leeway, because I eat seafood on ocassion, I did have decent shrimp, fish, and lobster dishes, especially at one particular cafe we grew to adore for its food and the warmth from the people running the joint.


Once while we ate there we also got a chance to sit next to a table of famous Cuban hip hop artists. The Waitress, a fabulous AfroCuban sister, was clearly star struck and fawned over them. From their fly outfits to the number of people who walked up happily greeting them, Nicole and I decided to sneak a few photos as proof that we hung out in hip places and rubbed elbows with at least the Cuban famous. If anyone recognizes these raperos (rappers), drop me a line so that I may properly brag.

What we also learned is that Cubans love their sweets and their booze. Pastries. Cakes. Rum. Beer. We saw lines of people waiting to get their allotment of cakes. And when I mean cakes, I mean fancy cakes, like wedding cakes. We'd see people, kids, old ladies, men with canes walking the street, avoiding pot holes and hungry dogs, deftly holding these fancy cakes with icing, drooling for their sugar fix.

We also saw loads of people buying their booze by the bottles. Havana Club, which is Cuban Ron (rum), and cuban beer like Cristal. Havan Club is the country's premiere choice of drinks. The island grows its own sugar cane and refines its own rum. Everyone drinks it. Many even use it in religious Santera Yoruban ceremonies. Though I am not that much of a drinker, I must admit that Havana Club is superior, and by far better than stinky Barcardi. This is just my preference. I learned that though Barcadi is more popular internationally, and is supposed to be representative of Cuban rum, it's not. Most Cubans understand that Barcardi and Havana Club are worlds apart, even universes apart. Barcardi is loaded withtons of inpurities that adversely affects its taste, and gives you the worst hangovers. Havana Club is purer, tastier, richer. The story is that the Barcardi people have tried stealing the Havana Club's recipe, which is guarded like Fort Knox. When you taste the Cuban ron you understand why Barcardi does not even compare. When in Cuba, do a taste test and you'll see for yourself.

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